Introducing the Lac Blanc – most popular hike in the French Alps


The Lac Blanc is a glacial lake within the Aiguilles Rouges massif opposite Mont Blanc. Surrounded by some of the most impressive scenery in the Alps, a hike to the lake provides picture-postcard views throughout. From the larch forests lining the lower slopes, to the ibex-covered scrub above and the rocky pillars of the Aiguilles Rouges, the route is lined with amazing sights. The wider panorama holds views of Europe’s tallest mountain and numerous glaciers and pinnacles along the Mont Blanc massif.

The Lac is billed as one of the most popular hiking destinations in the French Alps (hence we chose to attempt it in the quieter, winter months). Of the possible routes, the one described below is the quietest – while the busier routes utilise the La Flégére cable car (and Index chair lift), this itinerary follows a serene path rising through a national park well away from the main course.


Time
Allow half a day (minimum), comprising:
3 hr to hike up
2 hr to return (on the Echelles via ferrata route passing the Aiguillete de Argentiere)


Parking
The route starts from either of the free car parks on the N-506 Col des Montéts (see our Hikes, Rides & Activities map).  There’s also a regular bus link between the Col and the du Mont Blanc in Chamonix.


Route
The route to the Lac splits away from the roadside track
The Lac Blanc route is signed from the Col des Montéts car park(s). The trail runs parallel to the road (on the west side) before splitting off to wind up the steep mountainside. After several switchbacks (and several hundred metres above the car park) the path straightens out heading south along the side of the massif.

The route then passes through two large bowls, which form part of Le Grand Balcon Sud – a wide, (relatively) flat terrace on the mountainside. (Oddly, during our winter hike, all of the signplates had been removed from several of the signposts, along the way, leaving us to navigate sans direction over the snow-covered terrain – it was more by luck than chance that we arrived in the right place).

Lunch overlooking Mont Blanc at the Lacs des Chéserys cairn
A large stone cairn just south of the Lacs des Chéserys marks the meeting of three paths - and the start of more varied terrain toward the Lac Blanc. From the cairn, follow the route over a ridge and along the southeast bank of the Lac de Chéserys, from where the Lac Blanc Refuge is visible among the projecting rocks above.

The route thereafter climbs steeply up the mountainside, though it was snow-covered during our winter ascent, so we simply scrambled through snowdrifts up the 55° incline. Twenty minutes later we arrived at the refuge, its roof lined with yellow-billed choughs looking out for morsels of food.

Looking back at the Lac de Chéserys: the route passes around 
the lake's south bank
The timber-built refuge sits at 2352m on the west bank of the lower lake, partial circumnavigation of which allows access to the higher lake. The near vertical Aiguille du Persévérance looms high above, topping out at 2901m and providing some of the most challenging rock climbing in Chamonix.

Following exploration of both lakes, we retraced our steps down to the southern bank of the Lac de Chéserys and, indeed, to the large cairn where we’d lunched. Taking the lower path from the cairn (in the general direction of Chamonix), we were able to recommence the circular aspect of our hike.  The path loops back on itself after a short while to head in the direction of the Col des Montéts.

The Echelles via ferrata allows passage across high granite cliffs
Passing the Aiguillete du Argentiere (1893m), a 50-metre monolith rising out of the mountainside, the path crosses across granite cliffs: the Echelles via ferrata is established, consisting of iron ladders, handrails, platforms and footholds. No ropes are required, but the Eschelles may be deeply uncomfortable for vertigo suffers – a definite ‘you fall, you die’ route.

Thereafter, the route is a gentle ramble down to the hamlet of Tré-le Champ, passing through larch forests on the lower slopes. From Tré-le Champ, a roadside footpath can be traced some 300m uphill, back to the start of the hike.



Lac Blanc as viewed from the Lac Blanc Refuge

The Lac Blanc Refuge, with the Aiguille du Chardonet and the Aiguille Verde in the background



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